This video compares the noises emanating from a Bad Hub/Bearing to a New one on a BMW 330i (E46) – Passenger side @ 97251 mileage. First you heard what a blown out hub/bearing sounds like, then after a new one has been properly installed… you hear the difference between them. Quick Link : (How to replace your Wheel Hub / Bearing) www.youtube.com
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@FireBurningDesire
Probably for a good three and half months. The sounds developed slowly (barely audible). At first I thought it was tire noise < they were old anyways, so I rotated them.Thought that fixed it because the sounds changed ie: less noticeable. However, the noises came back several weeks later… which made me get new tires. But, the noise was still there and getting Louder to a point of major annoyance. That’s when I took the whole thing apart and tracked it down to the bearings.
HOW LONG WHERE YOU DRIVING ON THE OLD ONE????
1:00 cool
@gixxergarry
Interesting… usually when new bearings FAIL (prematurely), it’s due to over torque. What torque spec did you install your hubs? Was it done with a Impact wrench, instead of a proper torque wrench? Also, what brand of hub/bearing did you use?
Funny thing you would complain… I was able to get 95+K miles out of the original bearings on my 330i BMW. And, considering the level of performance this vehicle has given compared to other brands of the same model year, there are no equal.
just a typical POS BWM, I have mine replaced once already and they are make that exact noise agagin…so frustrating
I have a RWD, so it doesn’t matter which mode my transmission is in, since these were my front axles. If you have an Xi model, then perhaps you should set it to “neutral”. The main thing about this process is you need to remove the brake calipers when you test.
Hey r u doin that in PARK or in NEUTRAL
@wootness3000
yes, it does indeed. Got to love FAG!
That bearing says “FAG” on it.
@frosty9595
That is absolutely correct.. and you can see it is as you stated when the brake rotor is off. However the rotor on, the weight of the rotor makes it appear much less so.
A good bearing wont spin freely like that let alone make that noise. Good bearings act like they are going through sludge….
@WinVistaUser2
Hello. Thanks for sharing…
I think that’s a Good price for an Oldsmobile.
However, we’re not comparing the same thing now, are we? I be more impressed if you’re vehicle was also a BMW, and you got everything done Properly for just $500 at a dealer or indie shop.
Nonetheless, it’s good to see you got your car up to spec!
One more thing>Go test drive an entry level Bimmer at your local BMW dealer just to see what it’s like compared to your Olds.Trust me, it will be an Awaking
Dude, I just got my car* back today, and the car parts that needed replacements were the tie rod and the hub bearing. I also got a routine oil change, as well as tire alignment, for $500 with taxes and labor.
*2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue @ 64,735 miles.
From what I have read and discuss with other DIYers, it’s more involved to replace the Rear hub/bearings because you will need to partially remove exhaust (for the driver side) and drive axles to get the bearing assembly out. You need a “BMW tool” to compress the bearings back in also.
Do you know if it is the same to change the rear hubs??